Machine for making hat linings



Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. '4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 1 I INVENTOR fa.- W a ATTORNEYS Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. 4, 1925 Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 3 5 RN J INVENTOR. Q24 63% A TORNEY5 NEW Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 4 R O T N E V m ATTORNEYS Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS INVENTOR fig/ 14 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Feb. 4, 1926 ATTORNEYS Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 6 QM Ww ATTORNEY 5 Dec 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet; 7

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Dec. 18, 1928.

Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 8 ATTORNEY5 Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Filed Feb. 4, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 9 l VENTOR Q 421%: Cifl m aw 0 M. 12M,

ATTORNEYS Dex:- 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS I 11 Sheets-Sheet 10 Filed Feb. 4, 1926 INVENTOR fiMQ QM @zm'flriw ATTORNEYS 14 Sheets-Shea ll Dec. 18, 1928. Y M. COHN CHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS Fi led Feb. 4, 1926 455M) EYS INVENTOR Dec. 18, 1928. M. COHN I MACHINE FOR MIAKINCY'ITAT LININGS 14 Sheets-Sheet 12 g! Feb. 4,- 1926 INVENTOR 4 4244 BY flmu x904 77M M ATTORNEYS Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN Filed Feb. '4,- 1926 MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS 14 Sheets-Sheet 13 INVENTOR ATTORNEY S Dec. 18, 1928.

M. COHN MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS 14 Sheets-Sheet 14 Filed Feb. 4, 1926 INVENTOR BY 7 M X H ORNEYS Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

UNITED STATES MAX COHN; OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T GEE-BEE MACHINE CORPORA- 1,695,213 PATENT OFFICE.

TION; A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS.

Application filed- February This invent-ion relates to the manufacture of; hat linings which are generally cupshaped, and consist of a tip, usually oval in form, and a strip of material known as a band, secured to the tip along the edge of the latter so as to depend therefrom.

Hat linings which are made of suitable fabrics, such as silk, have heretofore been made closed within a tape, is placed in the lining around the edge of the tip, and this is ordinarily done by feeding the cord to the sewing machine in such manner that the stitching uniting the tip and band will pass through the tape. As the use of thiscord necessitates that the operator control the feeding to the sewing machine of three different pieces of material, namely, the tip, the band, and the tape, the sewing operation is one which requires careful attention, and first quality products can only be made by operators of great skill. i p

The method of makinghat linings by hand as heretofore practiced, is slow and laborious, and owing to the high degree of skill re quired, the charges for labor are high, Also the rate of production on a hand-controlled" sewing machine is comparatively small, and many machines occupying a large amount of output.

'lhe present invention is directed provision of a machine on which linings can be made automatically, and this machineis capable of producing linings of uniformly other feeding devices by which clothis drawn I fron the bolt, hands out from it, and these j floor space are required in securing a large 1 to the 4, i926. SerialNo. 85,832.

bands fed intermittently to the sewing ma chine. The operation of the sewing machine is controlled by mechanism which places the machine in condition to receive a tip and band, which are fed thereto by the respective feeding devices. The tip and band are placed in the machine in proper relation to the needle by the feeding devices and, when the sewing machine is startedby the control mechanism, the band and tip are united by a row of stitching extending along one edge of the band, and aroundthe periphery of the tip. The sewing machine is also provided with suitable mechanism by which the reinforcing cord is placed in position so that alength of it may I to form: the completed lining have been placed in position in the sewing machine, the latter is started and continues in operation until the stitching is completed, whereupon'the sewing machine is stopped and the completed. lining withdrawn by the same mechanism by which the tip has been advanced to the machine. In

such 'retractile movement of the feeding mechanism to withdraw the completed linings, a new tip is fed to the machine, another band supplied thereto, the cord placed in position, and the cycle of operations is repeated. At the same time, appropriate mechanism withdraws the finished lining; from the tip feeding device, and delivers it to a suitable location. p

In the operation of the machine the several groups of mechanism operate in timed relation so that the formation of the band from the cloth, the advancing of this band and y a tip to the sewing-machine, and the withdrawal of the finished lining from the ma chine, take place either simultaneously or successively as required. -The machine can therefore produce finished linings at arapi'. rate because, as the sewing of one lining is going on, the p arts for. another areadvancing toward the sewingmachine, and the intervals during which the sewing machine is inoperative are brief. The machine requires aminin um of attentionandno high degree of skill,

is required of the operator. The. labor charges are therefore much reducedand the output 1S high. Also the linings produced are all duplicates with no; variation in quality.

For a better understanding ofthe inven- The cloth which forms the side band of the lining is wound upon a roller 80 havlng trunnions which are carried by the stand ards 81 as shown in Fig. 13. The cloth is drawn from the roll as indicated at 82 and thence along a table 83. The cloth is advanced over the table by spring pressed feeding rollers 84 and and similar rollers 86 and 87. These two sets of rollers are connected by a chain 88 and both sets are operated intermittently by the ratchet 89 through the intermeshing gears 90 and 91. The ratchet-89 is operated by the cam 02 which rocks the lever 93 which is held against the cam by the spring 95. A link 94, connected to the lever, drives the ratchet mechanism. The cam 92 is mounted upon a shaft 100, (Fig. 8) which is rotated by power transmitted through the chain of gears 2, the chain 101, shaft 102, shaft 103, and the chain 104 connecting shaft 103 to the shaft 100.

When the machine is in operation, the cam 92 reciprocates the arm 94 operating the ratchet device 89 and causes the sprmg -pressed feeding rollers to feed the cloth.

The feedingof the cloth is in timed relation to the intermittent operation of the sewing machine, and'sufiicient cloth is fed to provide a band for a lining upon each operation of he sewing machine.

As the cloth is fed by the feeding rollers, sections of the cloth are severed of the shape of the sections shown in Fig. 31. A pivoted knife (Fig. 11) is normally held in raised position by the counterbalancing weight 111 and this knife is raised and'lowered intermittently to sever th cloth.

of the link is a pivoted arm 113 which is actedupon by a cam 114 mounted upon the shaft42 (Fig.1). .The cloth is fed from the table 83 onto the shelf 115 which, as shown in Fig. 13, is disposed at lower level than the table 83. The table 83 is provided with a cutting edge 1.16 which co-operatcs with the knife 110. Springs 117 and 118 (Fig. 1)

.of a hat lining.

The severed section of cloth which lies upon the-shelf 115 is position to be advanced to the sewing needle of tee sewing ma chine along the shelf in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 1. The cloth is advanced by member 120 which reciprocates in a guide 121. .This member is recip rocated by a cam 122 mountedon the-shaft ice A link 1112 is connected to the knife, and on the lower end 103, as shown in Fig. 11/ The cam 122 operates through intermeshing gears 123 and 124, carried on studs on the frame of the machine, to oscillate the link125 which en gages a stud 126 projecting from the member 120. Oscillation of the link 125 pushes the member 120 from left to right as shown in Fig. 11, and the spring 127 acts upon the link 125 to return the member 120 to its position of rest. 7

The reciprocating member 120 carries a cloth gripper 130. This gripper 130 is mounted upona' rod 131 pivotally carried by the member 120, one end of which rod operates in the slideway 139, see Fig. 10. A coil spring 132 acts upon the rod 131 to move the gripper downwardly in a position to contact with the cloth so that when the member 120 moves from left to right of Fig. 11 the gripper130 engages the cloth and moves it along the shelf 115 to the sewing machine. On the reverse movement of the member 120 the gripper 130 is raised out of contact with the cloth. This is accomplished by means of a grooved membar 133 positioned on an incline to the horizontal and in this member, the depending arm 134 slides as shown in Figs. 12 and 19. The arm 134 is pivoted at 135 to the spring actuated rod 131. A pin 136 secured to an enlargement 137 upon the rod 131 is engaged by the arm 134 in one direction of movement. In the cloth advancing movement of the member 120 and gripper 130,the arm 134 is swung around the point 135 by engagement with the inclined member 133 (Fig. 12), but in such swinging movement the arm 134 has no effect upon gripper 130. On the reverse movement of the cloth advancing mechanism. the arm 134 is swung around the point 135 in'the opposite direction by engagement with the inclined member 133, and the arm 134 now engages the pin 136 and causes a rotative movement of the rod 131, raising the gripper 1.30 so that it will not contact with the cloth. An adjustable stop 138 limits the reverse movement of the cloth advancing mechanism. This stop engages the arm of the gripper 130 and maintains the gripper 130 in raised position as the arm 134 drops out of the grooved member 133, vso that the cloth for the next lining which isfed from the supply roll may move under the grip- "pcr130.

A project-ion 140, mounted upon the raised edge of the shelf 115, is positioned to contact with the gripper 130 at the beginning of the cloth advancing movement. This projection 140 is adjustable lengthwise of the shelf for the purpose of regulatingand determining the correct time that the gripper 131 will contact with the cloth to advance it to the machine. It will be seen that when the cloth advancing mechanism is moved forward by the action of thelink 125, the cloth gripper .130 tendsto drop into engagement with the cloth as it leaves the stop 13,8. 7 In so doing it strikes the stop 1 10 which prevents the gripper from contacting with the cloth. The adjustment of thestop along the shelf, determines the effective feeding stroke of the gripper.

The tips of the lining are placed in the reciprocatingreceiver (Figs. 1 and 2) by an operator. This receiver 150 reciprocates in the guides 151, and the reciprocatory movement is imparted thereto by the link 152 operated through the intermeshing gears 158, 154'and. link 155 which is connected to a pivoted arm 156 operated by a cam 157 which is mounted upon the shaft 103. Spring 158 holds the arm 156 in contact with the cam 15?, (Fig. 14:) and spring 15-9 assists inreturning the tip receiver 150 to its outermost position. The tips of the lining are placed into the receiver 150 while it is in itsouter position, whereupon the receiver is moved inwardly by the cam and levers just described, to the position shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The tip is then transferred to mechanism which advances the tip to the sewingmachine. V

The tip advancing mechanism as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, may take the form of a turntable 175. This turntable is operated step by step advancing a tip to the sewing machine in. each step. The turntable shown comprises six arms for holding thetips, and the table has six movements to one complete rotation thereof although the number of arms for.

holding the tips may be more or less as desired. Each armreceives a tip at position A shown in Fig. 1. The turntable 1Y5 has roll.- ers 176 which are engaged by a member 177 i'nounted upon the shaft 178 which is rotated from the shaft 100 and which moves the table step by step. The turntable is stopped at the end of each step and held in posltion aspring latch 355 and areciprocating rod 350, shown in Figs. 2 and 8. To the. lower end of the rodis secured a pivoted arm 351 which is actuated by a cam 352 mounted upon the rotating shaft 100. The arm 351 is held upwardly by the spring 353. When the turntable is n'ioving the cam action allows the spring 353 to pull the arm 851 and rod 350 upwardly so that the uppermost end of the rod 350 is positioned in the path of one of the arms on the turntable. The arm of the turntable moves over the spring latch 355 and strikes the upper end of the rod 350 and comes to a stop in a position to present a tip to the sewing machine. The arm is securely positioned between the spring latch and the rod. After the lining has been sewed together the cam 352'pulls the rod 350 down to permit movement of the table, and the rod moves up again to engage the next arm on the turntable and stop the table in this move ment.

Each arm of the turntable is provided with 'cam 191 mounted on shaft 108 Fig. 8. i

tip gripping members 180 and 181. These members 180'and 181 are opened and closed by suitable mechanism to grip the tip, ad-

Vance it to the sewing machine and then to release the tip upon-the completion of the lining. The gripping surfaces of the members 180 and 181 may be ofrubber and V the rubber may be corrugated or roughened to hold the tip from movement relative to the grippers. Also pins 195 may be protion by the tip feeder 150. When the turn;

table moves one of the tip carry ng arms to position adjacent to the tip feeder 150, the grippers and 181 are separated as. indicated in Fig. 9' and the tip is inserted between the twomembers by the movement of the member 150. In this opened position of the grippers, the pivoted arm 182 isengaged by the spring actuated hook 185 whichholds the gripper 181 upwardly against the action of the spring 183. lVh-en the tip is in position, the arm 185 is caused to release the pivoted arm 182 whereby the tip is gripped by the member 181. hook 185 is accon'iplished by the central shaft 186 which carries a dog 187. When the shaft 186 moves downwardly, the dog 187 engages the rocker arm 188 which has a-cam vided which project into the tip as shown in Fig. 24L, to insure a firm grip of the tip. As

The releasing of the 1 surface 189 which pivots the 110011185 until I.

such time as it releases the arm 182-. Shaft 186 is held normally in raised positionby the spring 197;. and downward movement of the centralshaft 186 is iLCCOl'lHQllSllGCl through the pivoted arm190 which is actuated by as shown in The tip thus g* 'iped advanced step by step until such it. no it is presentedto the needle of the sewing machine atposition B indicated in Fig. 1. The tip is presented tothe needle of the sewingmachine prefe ably just ahead of the presentation of the cloth which is advanced along the, shelf 115 to thesewing machine, and whenboth are in position they are sewed together,

the tip being rotatedby its holders 180 and 181. The tip gripper 181 is-freely suspended.

from arm 182 by the link 192 having ball and soc Gt connections 193 and 19-1 2 1-).

111 the operation of the machine the step by step movements of the turntable are relatively fast, and in order to prevent undue swinging of the freely suspended gripper member'181, each link 192 is directed through a ring 196, allow for the oval movement of the member 192 asthe tip is rotated and oscillated. Each lower gripper 180 iS'IIiOUDiiGd upon a shaft This ring is of suliicient size to 200 which is rotated by intermeshing gears 201 and 202, the gear 202 being mounted upon the shaft 203 which is driven through a gear train 204. There is one such gear train for each gripper.

As indicated in Figs. 2 and 8, each gear train 204 is driven by the gear 205. The gear 205 is rotated intermittently with the operation of the sewing machine, and, as shown in Fig. 2, is driven by the gear train 206 and link shaft 207 under the control of clutch '36. The operation of the sewing machine and the rotation of the tip from the same clutch 36 provides for the rotation of the tip under the needle of the sewing machine when the sewingmachine is operating.

For the purpose of meshing .the teeth of a gear in one of the trains 20 1 with the teeth of gear 205, the gear 205 is mounted for movement up and down which is permitted by the link shaft 207. The gear 205 is mounted upon the sliding frame normally held in uppermost position by a spring 208, the f ."ame being actuated by an arm 210 pivoted as at 211 and moved by the cam 212 mounted upon shaft 1.03 (Figs. 8 and 9). The cam 212 lowers the gear 205 each time the turntable advances a step and allows the train 20-il to move over the gear 205, whereupon the gear 205 is raised and the teeth thereof mesh with the teeth of a gear belonging to the next gear train 204.

A collar 215 is secured to the shaft 203, and this collar is provided with recess into which the end of a locking pin 216 is adapted to lit. See Fig. 2. The lower end of the pin 216 is secured to a pivoted member 217 actuated by a spring 218 which causes the pin to normally assume an upward position in the recess of the collar 215 and thus lock the tip gripping means against rotation. Each tip gripping means is so locked throughout the entire movement of that means around the turntable, and is released only when it presents a tip to the sewing machine and is to c rotated. For the purpose of removing the pin 216 from the recess in the collar 215, a rod 220 is provided. This rod is normally held downward by a spring 22% upwardly by the action of the cam mounted upon the shaft 103 operating through the pivoted lever 222 which is connected to the lower end of the rod at 223 as shown in 9.

The tip is usually of oval formation and itis necessary to give the tip a rcciprocatory motion as well as a rotary motion when the band is being sewed to the tip so that the edge of the tip will always be under the needle. For this purpose, an eccentric element is placed in the shaft 200 as shown in Fig. The bevel gear 201 drives the gripper 180 hrough a'tubular shaft 231, the shaft 231 having a squared end 232 which fits within a slot 233 of a box 230 which is secured to the shaft 200. Fitting within the box is a disk and is moved 234cprovided with an open bottom recess 235 for accommodating the head 236 of the-pin 237 extending through the shaft 231. The recess 235 extends from a central portion ofthe disk to the outer edge thereof as indicated in Fig. 25 A tubular member 238 within hollow shaft231 encloses the rod 237 and projects slight distance above the upper end of the shaft The head 236 of the rod is adjustable along the length of the recess 235 to determine the degree of the reciprocating movenient to be imparted to the tip. The disk is held in. assembled relation with the pin 237 by the nut 239, and in tightening the nut the walls of the recess are gripped between the head of the pin and the upper end of the tubula member 238, as shown in Fig. 26, thus preve fng rotation of the disk.

The rotation of the bevel gear 201 and shaft 231 rotates the box 230 and the shaft 200 through the medium of the squared portion j center. whereby an eccentric action is attained.

The box 230 reciprocates back and forth rela tive to the shaft 231 with the squared head 232 sliding in the slot 233. The ball and socket joints of the member 192 permits the eccentric movement of the member 181.

As shown in Fig. 18 the reinforcing cord 6 and. its cloth covering 7'are fed to the machine through a guide 2&0. As indicated in Fig. 21 the guide 2 10 comprises a channel 241 into which. the fabriccovering is directed and a channel 2&2 into which the cord is directed. These channels merge together and the fabric 7 is folded around the cord 6 in the manner indicated in Fig. 23. The outlet 24.0 is positioned adjacent the foot and needle of the sewing machine, and rests upon a cloth advancing member 2&5 oi the sewing machine. The member 2 15 and a similar member 2426 are parts of the sewing machine proper and it is not deemed necessary to describe their operation herein. 7 While it is custom ary to make hat linings with a reinforcing cord, it may be desirable at times to make hat linings without such a cord. This can be accomplished by disposing of the cord and its covering. In this case, the machine operates the same in all respects, except that the cord and covering'are not directed to the sewing machine. y

The guide 240 is pivoted as at 250 and is movable on the pivot by the link 251 connect ed to the arm 67 which is actuated by the cam 68 as shown in Fig. 16. The spring 252 holds the outlet end 2%: of the guide in contact with the member 245, and the action ofthe cam 68 turns the guide about its pivot to r isothe outlet end 244. As shown in Fig. 21 the cloth 

